When it comes to the best brow styles, Kim Evans of Melbourne’s Lux Brows & Lashes says the right set knows no age limit

As a brow specialist with over a decade of experience, I’ve seen how the right brow shape and treatment can transform a face. In 2024, the focus is on enhancing your natural beauty with precision and care.

The emphasis is always on natural beauty with tailored treatments that enhance rather than overpower. Regardless of age, the key is to maintain brow health. Choose the right brow treatment for the individual while drawing inspiration from celebrities who exemplify the best brow looks for their age group.

Does age matter?

A client’s suitability for any brow treatment is based on their brow hair – whether that be a lot of brow hair or very little. Age doesn’t really come into determining a treatment. It’s more about what the client wants to achieve with their brow look and realistically what they are prepared to do when it comes to styling their brows. For example, are they happy to work with brow powder/pencil/styling wax or gel?

No matter what treatment you choose, beautiful brows should be brushed into place much like head hair does. There’s upkeep for your brows, albeit minimal. But to think there’s no maintenance is unrealistic with any treatment chosen.

Have a conversation with your client about what look they’d be able to realistically achieve for their brows daily.

Brow trends v what suits

Most clients want a brow treatment that is going to suit their face and more importantly, their lifestyle. If they don’t have much time each day to style their brows, the artist should take that into consideration when recommending an appropriate treatment – the treatment best suited to their lifestyle.

Teens

The most important factor is to educate teens and not to over pluck their brows; we all know overplucked brows carry an expiry date! At this age, brows are still developing their shape. Waxing and plucking by a professional brow artist is recommended. Keep within the natural shape of the brow and tidy any rogue hairs. Teen brows should remain age appropriate, too.

I don’t recommend threading or trimming the brow hair because over time, the brows can become patchy and lack shape. Naturally, brow hairs are a half-moon shape, tapering and falling towards the end, which creates brow shape. When that hair is cut short, it can tend to stick straight up and fall forward. This can give a harsh look.

Harsh chemicals and excessive manipulation should also be avoided for teens, as their skin is still delicate and prone to sensitivity. Consider contraindications like Roaccutane-use at this age – you cannot wax while on such medication as it will rip/damage the skin. Pluck instead.

Teen brows are generally darker. But if they are fair, a light tint is a good option for creating a fuller look, capturing the blonde ‘baby hairs’ that sometimes can’t be seen due to the light colour.

Celebrity Inspiration: Millie Bobby Brown

20s

Go for a defined arch that flatters the face. This is the time to experiment with shaping, while aiming to keep things natural.

Wax and tweeze the brows for precision. Brow lamination is also popular for a fuller, groomed look. It’s a fabulous treatment for those with sparse or thin hair and only requires simple brushing. It’s a great time to experiment with colour, especially if the brows are lighter.

All those late nights and pent up stress can affect skin and brow health. Clients should seek to maintain a balanced diet rich in vitamins and minerals to support hair growth.

Celebrity Inspiration: Zendaya

30s/40s

A softly-defined arch with a slightly fuller look is best for 30 and 40-year-olds. This adds structure and balances the features. As we mature, a more structured, slightly arched brow that lifts the face and opens the eyes suits well.

Brow Feathering using a nano brow technique is ideal for filling in thinning brows and for those who want long-lasting brow results. This is a great option for those who have hair loss, gaps in the brow and want to recreate fuller, improved brow shape. Also perfect for those who are time poor and want to wake up with brows. Nano Brows is semi-permanent tattooing using pigments over ink to create strokes which mimic brow hair.

Brow lamination is also well-suited to those of this age – excellent for achieving a sleek, polished look. Combine brow lamination with a hybrid hair dye and colour to add further depth and definition. The benefit of hybrid dye is that it can last up to seven weeks – far longer than a traditional tint. It also dyes any newly sprouting grays. A combination of waxing and dyeing can help maintain definition and fullness.

Factors like hormonal changes, pregnancy, breast-feeding, and stress can impact hair growth and skin sensitivity. Artists should ensure treatments are gentle and nourishing as the skin can start to become more sensitive with age. It’s essential to use hypoallergenic products and to avoid overly-aggressive treatments.

Celebrity Inspiration: Olivia Wilde

50s/60s

Menopause can lead to thinning brow (and lash) hair. A conditioning and nourishing brow and lash serum should be recommended. We tend to forget about conditioning these precious hairs, so the sooner we start to nurture them, the better.

Stick to a softly-angled brow to enhance facial structure. And don’t be afraid to work up to a fuller brow as they can give a more youthful appearance. Microbladed or powder brows are great to add fullness and shape. Hybrid dye is also beneficial for maintaining colour intensity. It’s a fallacy that hybrid dye will make a client’s brows look too big or dark, but rather perfectly defined. Hybrid dyes can also be customised according to a client’s palette – be it light, warm, cool, or dark.

Remember – the older the client, the drier and more sensitive their skin may be. Choose treatments that are hydrating and avoid anything too abrasive.

Celebrity Inspiration: Cate Blanchett

70s+

For clients in their 70s and beyond, I recommend a natural, softly-arched brow shape that adds structure without being too bold. Simplicity is key – keep the brow looking natural so as not to overpower the face. When it comes to brows, one size doesn’t fit all.

Quite often during these years, the brow hair lightens and may be not visible. The skin is also more fragile. Brow Feathering using the nanobrow technique is ideal as it is a form of super soft brow tattooing and so perfect for mature skin. Little daily maintenance is therefore required, so have your clients ditch the brow pencil!

Tinting mature brows doesn’t carry longevity as a tint only sits on the brow hair and washes off. This is where hybrid dye can also help, because it penetrates the hair follicle and ultimately lasts longer between sessions. It is also a must for adding colour and definition to thinning brows. Educate your clients that dyeing their brow hair won’t equate to dark, solid, heavy brows – those days are gone. Regular dyeing of the brow hair can help maintain a polished brow look, offering added brow structure and definition.

Skin in this age group is very delicate. Avoid any treatment that could potentially irritate or damage the skin.

Celebrity Inspiration : Judi Dench.

This article originally appeared in the Spring 2024 print issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Read it here.

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