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Ask the Experts: Skin ‘Ins’ & ‘Outs’ for 2025

Ask the Experts: Skin ‘Ins’ & ‘Outs’ for 2025

As the new year unfolds, we asked beauty industry insiders for their essential skincare “ins” and “outs” for 2025. From innovative skincare ingredients to common pitfalls, here’s what the experts hope to see more and less of this year.

Amber Smart – National Educator, ACSG

IN: Prioritising cleanser

“A high-quality cleanser is crucial for healthy-looking skin. Many underestimate its importance because it’s on the skin for such a short time, but a poor cleanser can cause long-term damage. Harsh cleansers strip the skin’s natural barrier, leading to dehydration, sensitivity, inflammation, and a higher risk of wrinkles, pigmentation, and breakouts. A pH-balanced cleanser that supports the skin’s microbiome is the foundation for a successful skincare routine.”

OUT: Compromising on quality

“Not all skincare products and devices are created equal. Some ranges claim to contain beneficial ingredients, but the quality, quantity, and delivery systems matter most in achieving results. Professional treatments like dermabrasion can be effective but may not be suitable for all skin types. These treatments can strip the skin and damage its barrier, leading to dehydration, sensitivity, inflammation, and potential breakouts. Similarly, devices like LED masks can offer benefits for blemishes, ageing, and pigmentation, but inferior devices may do more harm than good. Poor-quality LED lights can exacerbate ageing and pigmentation, similar to overexposure to UV rays from the sun.”

Amber Smart, ACSG

Bex Hunt & Emma Hughes – Co-Founders, Saint Beauty

IN: Skin memberships

“Consistent and regular treatments are the key to achieving lasting skin results. Skin memberships are on the rise, offering convenient access to ongoing care while spreading out the costs through manageable weekly payments. It’s an easy way to ensure you’re staying on top of your skin’s needs without financial stress.”

OUT: Thinking one facial will fix all your skin concerns

“The idea that a single facial can completely resolve your skin issues is outdated. While facials are great for short-term rejuvenation, lasting results require a consistent approach. Skincare is an ongoing journey, and one-off treatments simply can’t deliver the long-term benefits of regular, tailored care.”

Bex Hunt & Emma Hughes, Saint Beauty

Becks Spencer – Founder,  Biome Skin and Beauty

IN: Exosomes

“I’m personally very excited to be introducing exosomes to my treatment menu very soon. Delivered via microneedling, these tiny cell-derived vesicles act as messengers, stimulating cell repair and regeneration and boosting collagen and elastin production.”

OUT: Tretinoin

“While these potent forms of Vitamin A are highly effective at improving skin texture, reducing acne, and stimulating collagen production, they often come with significant drawbacks. These include irritation, redness, peeling, increased sensitivity and a damaged skin barrier in many circumstances. Gentler versions, such as granactive retinoid or encapsulated retinol, offer comparable benefits with far less risk of discomfort.”

Becks Spencer, Biome Skin and Beauty

Caroline Parker – Head of Education, Dermalogica NZ

IN: Focusing on skin health, not anti-ageing

“For years the worlds obsession with anti-ageing has sent many consumers down a convoluted path of products, fads and misinformation about how to stop the ageing clock, turning to invasive and detrimental products and services. In 2025 healthy skin is in!”

OUT: Single benefit products

“We are all looking for value for money. Make your skincare investment go further by looking for multi benefit skin care products like sunscreens that also blur your pores, or serums that reduce breakouts and also reduce the risk of post inflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Caroline Parker, Dermalogica

Linda Sharrem – National Skincare Trainer, Caci

IN: SPF, always

“SPF is always in. Look for a sunscreen that does double duty with skin-loving ingredients included. This way your SPF is not just providing protection for UV radiation but can also be hydrating with advanced hyaluronic acid and ceramides for a strong barrier (Murad Multi Vitamin Clear Coat Broad Spectrum SPF 50) or delivering Vitamin C (Murad City Skin Broad Spectrum SPF 50) for added antioxidant or the best combo: SPF + Niacinamide (Skinsmiths Daily Antioxidant Defence SPF 30) to prevent and treat dark spots and uneven skin tone all in a light weight texture.”

OUT: Over-exfoliating

“While we love that fresh-skin feeling, overdoing it can compromise our skin barrier function, leading to angry and inflamed skin. Consider a monthly hydradermabrasion and weekly at-home acid-based exfoliators. Products like Murad’s Replenishing Multi Acid Peel or Skinsmiths Resurfacing AHA/BHA Peel can help maintain healthy skin without the risk of overdoing it.”

Linda Sharrem, Caci