Combining the best in biocompatible ingredients with unique delivery systems, Hannah Gay unpacks Skin Moderne’s ‘Do No Harm’ philosophy.

Founding principles and vision

Twenty-four years ago, Richard Purvis, a health and wellness practitioner from California, established Skin Nutrition Inc. Driven by a lifelong fascination with nutrition and the body’s biological processes, Richard dedicated his research to understanding the intricate relationship between internal health and skin vitality. This commitment laid the foundation for Skin Moderne, launched in 2017 – a skincare brand that epitomises his appreciation for good health both internally and externally.

In his 2017 book, RECALIBRATE, Richard emphasises that “terrific skin definitely starts from the inside.” He believes that by providing the right nutrients, the body can optimise its natural biological functions, leading to healthier cells and, consequently, more youthful-looking skin. This holistic view places emphasis on wellness as a cornerstone of skincare.

A unique perspective on skincare

Richard and I met over Zoom, where he elaborated on his philosophy of wellness: “It’s about taking exceptional care of your body and providing it with the nutrients it needs to preserve or slow the aging process.” Unlike many entrepreneurs who begin with skincare development, Richard’s journey began with nutrition. His background in biochemistry and molecular recognition informed his approach, allowing him to view skin health through a unique, inward lens.

Richard’s drive to create his own company stemmed from a belief in biocompatibility. He focused on absorbable, food-state molecules that deliver more effective biological impacts than synthetic alternatives. This foundational philosophy evolved through connections with industry experts, including renowned figures in international skincare manufacturing.

The gut-skin connection

Richard’s intuition about the gut-skin axis—what he refers to as the “gut-beauty axis”—further shaped his investment in skincare. He noted the critical role of a healthy gut and microbiome in achieving beautiful skin. With this understanding, Skin Moderne offers a range of topical, technological and ingestible solutions aimed at addressing complex skin issues.

The brand’s offerings are characterised by their bio-active, bio-compatible, clean, minimalistic, and effective formulations. Richard’s commitment to ethical production practices reflects his aim to deliver results without compromising skin health.

Innovative technology and ingredient delivery

Richard’s pioneering spirit is evident in his approach to ingredient formulation; he challenges conventional methods, leaning into a preference to do no harm to the skin. “I’ve proven many times that things thought impossible can be achieved,” he remarked, citing his experiments with creating nanoparticles without harsh chemicals. This commitment to minimising irritants leads to safer products that are better absorbed by the skin.

As such, Skin Moderne’s philosophy champions biologically sustainable practices, avoiding methods that wound the skin to stimulate a healing response. Instead, the focus is on natural skin renewal and sustainability, utilising lab-replicated plant stem cells and extracts to minimise environmental impact.

Investing in cutting-edge technologies, Richard employs methods like fluorescent photography and a Microfluidizer®, which operates similarly to reverse osmosis. This technology allows for the targeted delivery of beneficial actives, such as proteins and peptides, while ensuring their integrity remains intact.

Through rigorous research and development, Skin Moderne has refined its encapsulation processes, utilising materials like alginate, lipid clusters, and advanced membrane technologies.

Biocompatibility and ingredient efficacy

Richard emphasises that effective skincare should prioritise biocompatibility – utilising materials that the body recognises and can process effectively. The aim is to preserve active ingredients while facilitating their deep delivery into the skin, thus maximising their therapeutic potential. Skin Moderne employs various encapsulation technologies designed to deliver active ingredients directly to the cytosol of cells, enhancing their biological impact.

Heroing Skin Moderne’s key ingredients lists includes the likes of Bidens Pilosa Extract – a stable, plant-based alternative to retinoids capable of reducing the RAR expression by 20% and increasing the RXR expression by 119%. The result? Effective anti-aging and anti-photoaging action, sans irritation. Hello BIO RETINOL.

Infinitec Golden is a patented form of vitamin C, merging L’ascorbic acid and glutathione, and conjugating them to gold sub microparticles to then form a stable antioxidant solution made to deliver superior collagen synthesis. Hello C FUSION.

And Bio-placenta – another patented ingredient, this time inclusive of five different growth factors to ultimately accelerate skin healing and renewal. Enter stage left BIO-PLACENTA++. With the exception of MOISTURE INFUSION, every Skin Moderne Elementals product contains bases made up of: ultra-low molecular weight hyaluronic acid, med-high molecular weight hyaluronic acid, micro silver, and Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM).

i/o beauti, which translates to Inside + Out, marks Skin Moderne’s entry into the ingestible space. Capsules contain two patented ingredients – CoreBiome® (a tributyrin) and Yuth™ (a polyamine) – designed to help improve the balance of the gut microbiome and promote cellular repair respectively. The product uniquely works to strengthen natural cell autophagy.

Autophagy takes place within the cytoplasm (jelly like substance inside the cell) and acts like a cellular recycling plant. A process takes place, by which cells can recycle unwanted or damaged components, organelles, proteins of itself, and recreate new ones. Autophagy is essential for cellular energy, functionality and cell survival.

Commitment to research and sustainability

Skin Moderne’s R&D team continuously explores plant varieties, utilising their properties through fermentation to create new, effective molecules. This innovative approach is akin to transforming milk into yogurt—leveraging fermentation to enhance the biological effectiveness of ingredients. “We’re not necessarily looking for something healthy. We’re looking for something that has high biocompatibility, but that can have a biological effect; that can stimulate. Something that can use a pathway to induce cellular activity.”

Richard acknowledges that developing such advanced products requires significant investment. Unlike many skincare brands, Skin Moderne operates independently, prioritising biocompatibility and quality through in-house research and development. Each product undergoes rigorous clinical trials to ensure that the selected materials meet high standards of efficacy and safety.

Technological advancements in application

Tapping into the technology space are Skin Moderne’s ULTRAfusion and NANOfusion PRO devices. ULTRAfusion works to further penetrate active ingredients into the skin using 10MHz ultrasound technology. “There’s a lot of smoke and mirrors out there [around ultrasound]; it’s actually about the correct utilisation of that technology correctly. We should be considering how long a device sits on any one area of the skin.

It should be slow, methodical, and we should have those waves be in an area for enough seconds to have a biological stimulation effect.” NANOfusion is a unique, needle-free, and multi-patented skin permeation device made to reinvigorate the skin with minimal injury. The device stands to serve as a gentler alternative to traditional needling competitors.

A vision for the future

Since its inception, Skin Moderne has continuously evolved, developing various formula iterations that push the boundaries of skincare. Richard’s dedication to exploring new plant-derived molecules and biocompatible ingredients positions Skin Moderne as a leader in innovative skincare. “I love playing in this sandbox. I want to keep growing Skin Moderne, and I believe in its potential.” With a commitment to both efficacy and ethical practices, Skin Moderne aims to redefine the skincare narrative, merging an appreciation for internal health with external beauty for a holistic approach to skin wellness.

Kristen Schultz, Dermal Supplies Australia & New Zealand’s National Sales and Training Manager, outlines how salons and clinics can benefit by working with Skin Moderne.

What drew Dermal Supplies Australia & New Zealand (DSANZ) to taking on the Australian distribution of Skin Moderne?

“We took on Skin Moderne in 2020 while in lockdown. It was a range that we had researched for a while, as we wanted to find something that was going to be really different and that wasn’t already available in the market in Australia. There was nothing like Skin Moderne and Elementals over here.

For example, NANOFusion wasn’t a concept that was really heard about as a painless alternative to skin needling. That was a point of difference. Some people don’t want to go down those [needling] avenues. Whereas, Skin Moderne gives you that correction, but without the aggravation. The brand’s ingredient profile, too, is so unique being clean yet still a cosmeceutical, without the nasty chemical components that can injure the skin. It creates a different skin response.

We also wanted a range that was still going to be in alignment with where the industry was headed. Post-COVID, we saw that clients had become more aware about what they were putting in (and on) their bodies; the clean beauty movement became stronger. Clients wanted more sustainable options, and they wanted cleaner ingredients that were going to align with their health and wellness. This is where Skin Moderne was, and is, well ahead of its time. It’s only now that the industry is catching up.

I like to use terminology: ‘turning the red flags off’. The skin knows what it needs to do, we’ve just got to give it the right environment and the right food to do so. We need to take the foot off the pedal and allow the skin to be able to function as it’s meant to.”

What type of business makes for the ideal Skin Moderne partner?

“Clinics that take a more holistic approach to the skin; who like to think about skin in the way of treating differently, not aggressively, being progressive in the treatment room, and enjoy working with good technology and science. It’s about taking a gentle approach to the stratum corneum, and creating less destruction to the epidermis. Skin Moderne is also great for clean and/or organic businesses.

We’re finding a lot of clinics are looking for ranges that are suitable for teens, where we don’t need to have an excessive amount of product to give to these tween and teenage clients that are otherwise heading into department stores.

And really, pretty well any clinic can take on the range. We have clinics that do have more basic peel systems where they see the benefits of taking on a different system to keep clients engaged in the business, especially as a therapist finishes a correction period with a client and moves into the maintenance space. It’s also ideal for uncomplicated clinics looking for ranges that are minimalistic yet effective and don’t have a lot of back bar or retail. People are looking for more simplicity in their lives. With Skin Moderne, you can create prescriptions that are really simple yet effective, or more detailed and intelligent.”

Talk us through how DSANZ educates its salons and clinics on Skin Moderne.

“When bringing on a new Skin Moderne partner, we create education pathways and strategies for each therapist depending on their individual level of skin knowledge. That way, the brand is easy to migrate in without complication. Training is not intensive where it can feel mind-boggling. We have a structure where we teach you how to make sense of the concepts behind Skin Moderne, to then be able to articulate it and sell those concepts to a client. We also help them with the retail component, ensuring it feels easy and straightforward along the way.

For NANOFusion, we discuss how the device differentiates from skin needling. Then we teach you how to go about creating custom protocols that are safe for everyone, including clients that fit in the categories of breastfeeding, pregnancy, active acne, rosacea, oncology, and so on. We teach you how to go in there first, and then we build out from that. We can also treat Fitzpatrick types 1 through 6.

We have an online training portal that provides 24/7 access to modules. Those modules take you through the ULTRAFusion and NANOFusion devices, the treatment protocols you can do, as well as the retail offering. They are broken down into digestible modules online so that way therapists can information in without getting too overwhelmed. We also then have classroom-style trainings that are held in every state and in New Zealand. That’s where we’ll have a day of both practical and theoretical training so therapists are getting in there doing it, feeling it, touching it – because therapists are kinesthetic. Doing so helps them to [solidify their understanding]. Our BDMs provide in-clinic training as well. We come and work with businesses to create strategies on how to strengthen an area of weakness, or further understand retailing.

With any new protocol or change, we offer both in-clinic training and share webinars to keep everyone abreast of what we’re doing. We like to really look after everybody; to make sure they have that regular contact with their BDM as that’s what’s going to help your business grow and keep making those profits, while still providing effective training to give therapists the confidence to jump in and go straight for it.

Skin Moderne protocols are constantly evolving, so we like to give our clients more ‘colour’ in the treatment room to get our therapists excited. As soon as we receive an update from Skin Moderne, we then deliver it straight away. That usually happens every 12 months, at which time we reanalyse our training platforms to see what we can do to improve them and make content more engaging. We’re constantly taking on feedback from clinics, looking at how they learn, how they grow, and manipulating our training to suit.

We want to work with the best-of-the-best. We don’t believe in oversaturating our brands because then it dilutes it down. We’re big on customer service, picking up the phone and having conversations the old-school way. And we want to keep that family-type connection with our clinics, whether that be via monthly or six-weekly catch- ups with our BDMs, in-person or over Zoom. We also have group chats and a Facebook group set up with clinics! It’s a nice way to keep sole operators connected. We are also set to run a Skin Moderne conference in 2025.”

Talk us through the key education pillars that fall under the Skin Moderne umbrella.

“For back bar, we discuss NANOFusion, ULTRAFusion, and we’ve got Oxygenation Enzymes. By feeding that blood through the skin [using the enzymes], we can use those as stand-alone treatments and alternate the serums used underneath. Serums can then be intertwined according to an individual’s skin needs. We can do a combination modality approach with Skin Moderne as well, which a lot of our clinics enjoy being able to do a peel before a NANOFusion, for example, or combine the two devices. Essentially, the therapist has a lot of room to cook in the kitchen.

We like to call it coloring inside the lines, where you follow those protocols to help you find your feet, to understand how your formulations work, and how you want them to behave to give you the desired result. Once comfortable, therapists can [experiment]. The beauty of Skin Moderne is that because ingredients are so clean, there’s no chance of any responseof a negative kind taking place. For those therapists that like to challenge the status quo and like to have a bit of fun in the treatment room, blending and mixing, they’ll enjoy the brand.

Intertwining Skin Moderne in with a clinic’s pre-existing protocols is straight- forward, given ingredients are clean and the chance of running into any molecular interactions are quite minimal. We encourage clinics to make sure they’re communicating with us as their BDMS with any questions regarding unique client outcomes.

Talk us through the distribution of Skin Moderne amongst your clinic network.

“We like to offer a degree of exclusivity to each and every one of our clinic partners to ensure each has the opportunity to grow and flourish in the brand. DSANZ offers postcode protection on Skin Moderne for our clinic partners.

We have conversations with business owners around what that looks like and to ensure we’re not treading on toes, as it’s important to us we look after our clinics. This is also dependent on the demographic of an area; whether clinics are city or regionally-based.”

What is the minimum opening Skin Moderne order amount for a salon/clinic?

“Orders are typically customisable to the individual business. We arrange a discovery meeting with
the business, whether in-person or digitally, to learn about the business and their needs. Inclusive of the NANOFusion device, tips, and back bar solutions, orders typically start around $3000. Adding in retail product, packages move to $5500-$6000. Testers are also available for retail walls. Where packages include the ULTRAFusion device with bar bar solutions, orders move to just shy of $10,000.”

To discover the full Skin Moderne portfolio and learn how the brand can work to elevate your in-salon skin services, contact Dermal Supplies ANZ on 1800 079 765 or visit www.skinmoderne.com.au/professional.

This article originally appeared in the Spring print issue of Professional Beauty magazine. Read it here.

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