What Is the Role of a Beauty Product Trial Coordinator?
Ultraceuticals Product Trial Coordinator Jessica Nichols reveals to Anita Quade her skincare mission.
A career journey
Jess, tell us about your role as a Product Trial Coordinator with Ultraceuticals. How did this come about?
“My journey with Ultraceuticals has been nothing short of an adventure. It all began back in 2017 when I stepped into the role of Clinic Manager at David Jones Elizabeth Street Sydney. Over the span of four and half years, I delved deep into the world of skincare, focusing on product education, skin analysis, facial treatments, and client care. This experience not only honed my skills but also gave me profound insights into the diverse needs of our clientele and the intricacies of skincare products and treatments.”
During the COVID lockdown you transitioned to the online team as a skin therapist. Tell us about that.
“I played a pivotal role in crafting innovative online skincare solutions, ensuring that our clients received the same level of personalised care and attention in the virtual realm.
I embarked on an exciting new chapter mid-2022 within Ultraceuticals, by joining the esteemed R&D team as Product Trial Coordinator. In this role, I take charge of overseeing the co-ordination of clinical trials, from participant recruitment to conducting meticulous skin analysis, administering cutting-edge facial treatments, and analysing trial results. It’s a role that comes with its own set of challenges, but the opportunity to contribute to the development of groundbreaking skincare products and treatments makes it incredibly fulfilling.”
Product trials
Tell us about the process of setting up trials for the products.
“Behind every trial at Ultraceuticals lies meticulous planning and collaboration. It all begins with strategic sessions alongside our product chemists and R&D director, where we map out the trial parameters. Together, we determine key factors such as panelist demographics, trial duration, targeted skin concerns, and the desired product claims. Once the trial blueprint is finalised, the recruitment process kicks off.”
“In this role, I take charge of overseeing the co-ordination of clinical trials, from participant recruitment to conducting meticulous skin analysis, administering cutting-edge facial treatments, and analysing trial results.”
How are the formulations tested?
“We subject our formulations to not one, but two rounds of rigorous testing to ensure perfection. The first phase is our preliminary trial, where I recruit a select group of six to ten panelists who embark on a 30-day journey with our products. However, flexibility is vital, as this phase may extend up to 90 days based on evolving results and my aim is to gather precise and comprehensive data to inform future decisions of the trial product. If the preliminary trial yields promising results, I then proceed to the major panel testing phase. This comprehensive 90-day period involves recruiting
a minimum of 20 – 50 panelists, allowing for deeper insights into product effectiveness and compatibility. During this major panel testing phase I undergo further recruitment of additional panelists to partake in a combined facial and homecare trial so we can evaluate and explore the synergic efficacy between the trial product and our professional treatments.”
R&D
There must be a lot of research that goes into the products before they hit the trial stage. Can you give us any insight into this?
“The journey of a product from conception to its final form is so fascinating and an intricate process, involving numerous stages of research and development. Before a product even reaches my desk, it undergoes extensive groundwork and meticulous planning, taking anywhere between a few weeks to several years to complete. Beginning with innovation meetings, we delve into emerging trends and market demands, crafting detailed briefs for the chemists.”
Where is product inspiration discovered?
“The R&D team regularly attend national and international trade shows, where we gather information and inspiration. As new raw materials are introduced to the market and innovative technologies emerge, the chemists continuously adapt their briefs to incorporate these advancements into their product formulations.
After a lot of trial and error in our Head office lab and successful stability testing, I then receive the product and start the preliminary trial phases. Here we can have formulation adjustments, and although we do run to set timelines it sometimes may take a little longer to create the perfect product.
In the background there are many other teams who work on every small detail to ensure that the final product meets our standards of excellence.”
The job highs and lows
What is the best part about your job?
“It is seeing the joy that comes after a successful product trial. It’s incredibly fulfilling not only to see a product succeed, but also witnessing the panelists’ joy and satisfaction with the results is truly a highlight of my work. It’s moments like these that remind me why I’m so passionate about what I do and why I work for such an incredible brand like Ultraceuticals whose products have the power to make a real difference in people’s lives.”
Any challenges that you face?
“Recruitment is a crucial aspect of my role. The process can vary significantly, ranging from a week-long endeavor to an ongoing pursuit. The key lies in identifying individuals with specific skin types and conditions tailored to each product’s requirements.
However, this task is not without its challenges. Some trials have faced extensions due to difficulties in finding participants with the exact skin conditions needed. Patience is necessary as it’s important to have the correct skin types and conditions to ensure the success and accuracy of our trials.”
The test subjects
How time consuming is it to conduct the trials – where do you find your testers?
“Conducting trials is undeniably a time-consuming process. From the preparatory stages before the trials commence to the meticulous analysis following their completion, the entire endeavor can span anywhere from two months to over a year.
When it comes to finding panelists, I rely on a combination of methods to ensure a diverse and suitable pool of participants. Typically, I tap into various channels such as our existing database, word-of-mouth referrals, social media platforms, personal networks including fellow colleagues, friends, and family, as well as other potential resources available to me.”
What are you looking for in these formulation trials?
“At the heart of every trial, we are looking for the efficacy of the chosen active ingredients and the best combination to deliver optimal results. We meticulously analyse how these actives and ingredient combinations perform in addressing the targeted skin issue, whether it’s reducing pigmentation, combating acne, or hydrating dry skin.”
Product trial timeframe
Why are most trials a minimum of 30 days?
“The 30-day mark serves as a pivotal moment in our formulation trials. This is when we conduct a thorough evaluation, assessing both objective and subjective measures of success. Objective data, such as Before and After images taken at each visit, provide us with tangible evidence of the product’s impact on the skin and subjective feedback from panelists, gathered through surveys, offers valuable insights into their personal experiences and perceptions.
Should any shortcomings or areas for improvement arise during the trial, we’re not afraid to go back to the drawing board. The R&D team believes in continuous refinement, striving to enhance the products based on the feedback and data gathered throughout the trial process.”
Wrong formula?
What happens when you discover a formulation is not effective? Can you explain the process to us?
“Ultimately, if we are not happy with the formulation results, we do not launch the product, we take it back to the lab and start the formulation process again. My role in this process includes a thorough analysis of before and after images, as well as comprehensive survey feedback, I present all findings to our founder and our leadership team for discussion. These meetings are crucial opportunities for us to delve into the data, identify any areas for improvement, and chart a path forward.”
Is it difficult to deliver negative news if the results aren’t as you had hoped for?
“I’ll admit that I often feel a tinge of nervousness during these discussions, particularly when it becomes evident that a product may not have met our expectations. Aside from the formulation itself; there are countless individuals involved in its journey, from the initial concept to the dedicated chemists working tirelessly in the lab. Knowing that so many people have invested their time and expertise can amplify the pressure to present positive findings.”
Career lessons
Can you share with us any of the biggest lessons learnt in your role?
“The most significant lesson I’ve learned throughout my experience with clinical trials is the importance of approaching each trial with an open mind and without preconceived expectations of the outcome. There are countless variables at play, and it’s essential to remain flexible and adaptable to whatever results may arise. I’ve come to understand that unexpected outcomes are not only common but also valuable opportunities for learning and growth.
Rather than being discouraged by unexpected results, I now see them as opportunities to deepen my understanding of skincare and refine our approaches to product development. I believe the journey of a clinical trial is just as important as the destination. By embracing uncertainty and maintaining an open mind, I’ve learned to appreciate the beauty of the scientific process and the endless possibilities it offers for innovation and discovery.”
What are your plans for this year in your role?
“There is a huge year ahead of me, I’m not too sure how much I can share as our trials are confidential, however I can confirm that there is a wealth of innovation across both homecare and professional treatments so it’s going to be an exciting and extremely busy year.”
This story originally appeared in the Winter 2024 print issue of Professional Beauty.
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