Home » What’s Next in Cosmetic Injectables? Dr Ellen Selkon on Profhilo, Biostimulators and Industry Trends

What’s Next in Cosmetic Injectables? Dr Ellen Selkon on Profhilo, Biostimulators and Industry Trends

What’s Next in Cosmetic Injectables? Dr Ellen Selkon on Profhilo, Biostimulators and Industry Trends

As one of only two Galderma National Trainers in New Zealand, Clinic42 Co-Founder Dr Ellen Selkon offers a rare level of insight into the latest innovations, training and regulatory challenges in cosmetic medicine. From the rise of biostimulators to the highly anticipated launch of Relfydess, she shares her perspective on what’s shaping the future of aesthetic treatments—locally and globally.

As one of only two Galderma National Trainers in New Zealand, what does this entail?
Dr Ellen: I train other healthcare professionals in the Galderma product range. This includes their dermal filler range, as well as Dysport, their botulinum toxin, and will include the new Relfydess once it’s launched in New Zealand. I’m a key opinion leader in establishing protocols and treatment regimes, and stay up to date with the latest research and development of their products.

You recently trained in Profhilo® treatment for the eye and lip areas. What are the unique challenges associated with treating these regions?
I’m also the national and international trainer for Profhilo. The periorbital area (around the eyes) presents unique challenges. It contains millions of fine blood vessels, the skin is often thin and hollow, and it’s an area that shows signs of ageing early. Due to these factors, along with poor lymphatic drainage, it’s prone to swelling. Injecting hyaluronic acid into this area often causes more puffiness, which can be problematic.

Dr Ellen Selkon is a Galderma National Trainer and an International Trainer for Profhilo.

How does the pain associated with Profhilo® treatment around the eyes and mouth compare to that of other areas?
The eyes are treated using a cannula, so the procedure is not painful. Around the mouth can be a bit uncomfortable, but we can minimise this with local anaesthetic cream or injection.

We are seeing a boom in demand for biostimulators. What factors do you believe are contributing to the increasing demand?
It’s all about skin at the moment, and many companies are launching biostimulators. It’s important to understand the difference between biostimulation and bioremodelling. Biostimulation often creates some inflammation in the tissue to promote healing, which then produces collagen and elastin. Bioremodelling, on the other hand, stimulates cells to function like younger cells, creating collagen and elastin in a more natural process. People are looking for safe, natural ingredients, and treatments like Profhilo use pure hyaluronic acid in high concentrations, having a bioremodelling effect on the tissue.

Global trends indicate a rising interest in injectables among younger demographics. Are you noticing this trend in New Zealand as well? If yes, what do you think is driving this?
Yes, we’re definitely seeing this trend in New Zealand. We live in the Instagram filter era, and celebrities like Kris Jenner appearing 30 years younger doesn’t help. If celebrities have had plastic surgery or treatments, they should be open about it, otherwise people are chasing unrealistic outcomes. Young people are very aware of the ageing process and want to get ahead of it. That said, most young clients here are being responsible with the treatments they choose.

Does your approach to consultations change with younger clients?
Yes, I always spend considerable time during consultations to ensure we’re on the same page. With younger clients, it’s even more important. I want to understand their motivations and guide them towards natural, healthy options. There’s so much they can do with skincare alone, and of course, daily sunblock is essential.

Given that New Zealand’s cosmetic medicine industry is less regulated than other markets, are there any signs of improvement, especially with younger audiences seeking out injectables?
There is a lot happening behind the scenes around regulating cosmetic providers, but currently, anyone can inject dermal fillers, as they’re classified as devices in New Zealand. Many providers offer weekend training courses, after which healthcare practitioners may feel qualified to inject on their own. The NZ Society of Cosmetic Medicine (NZSCM) offers a two-year diploma for doctors, with around 500 hours of training and hands-on experience.

While the regulation of practitioners here might be less stringent, how about the regulation of products? Do they need to be approved by bodies like Medsafe, TGA or FDA?
Products can be parallel imported or used under Section 29 even if they’re not Medsafe-registered in New Zealand. This area definitely needs tighter regulation.

Relfydess, Galderma’s new liquid neuromodulator, was approved for use in Australia earlier this year. I’ve come across rave reviews stating that results can be seen as early as day one. Have you seen the product in action yet?
Yes, it’s going to be a game changer. I’ve seen effects as early as Day 1, and the longest I’ve seen it take is three days. It also lasts for over six months, so clients can enjoy results with just two treatments a year—ideal for busy people.

Is there any word on its launch in New Zealand?
We’re currently waiting on Medsafe approval, which we hope will come through this year.

Are there any other exciting developments in the industry you can hint at?
Yes, I think we’ll see a lot of new skin-focused products launching over the next two years.

How do you see the future of cosmetic medicine evolving over the next few years in New Zealand?
It’s all about starting with the skin and getting it into optimal condition. Overseas, there’s an anti-filler movement, but structural fillers are still necessary to lift and restore volume.

What resources or continuing education opportunities do you recommend for practitioners wanting to stay up to date and improve their skills?
Doctors should consider the NZSCM training course, which allows them to practise independently without a collegial relationship. If laws tighten to align with Australia, the Medical Council of New Zealand may regulate who can perform cosmetic procedures. For nurses and other healthcare professionals, I recommend staged learning—starting with botulinum toxin, then dermal fillers. Don’t take a one- or two-day course and expect to be an expert or know how to manage complications.